Mobile Home Skirting: Vinyl, Metal, Rock & How to Choose and Install It
Skirting closes in the space under your home. It blocks wind, helps keep animals out, protects the plumbing and belly wrap, and makes the home look finished. This guide covers the common materials, rough costs, how to figure out how much to order, and how to install it without cutting off the airflow the crawlspace needs.
What Good Skirting Looks Like
Both photos below show vinyl skirting on singlewides in Michigan. Vinyl is the most common choice because it’s affordable and easy to install yourself.
Skirting or underpinning? People use both words for the panels around the base of a mobile home. This page focuses on choosing materials, ordering the right amount, and installing them. For more on underpinning in general, see my underpinning for mobile homes guide.
Mobile Home Skirting Materials
Most skirting is sold as a kit or as separate panels, top rail, bottom track, and trim. You can buy it at some home centers, but the selection is often limited, so many owners order online. Prices below are rough material costs for a typical singlewide and vary with home size, panel height, and brand.
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Vinyl Skirting
About $300–$1,200 in materials
Lightweight, low-maintenance, and the easiest type to install yourself. It comes in several colors and panel heights. Some kits include top rail, bottom track, panels, corners, and hardware. Others are panels only, so check before you order.
- White, beige, gray, and other colors
- Easy to cut and install
- Can crack on impact in very cold weather
Metal Skirting
About $400–$1,500 in materials
Steel or aluminum panels are tougher than standard vinyl and hold up well against impacts, wind, and lawn equipment. Look for coated or galvanized panels so they don’t rust, and plan to cut vent and access openings carefully.
- More impact-resistant than vinyl
- Steel and aluminum options
- Needs a corrosion-resistant finish
Rock & Stone Pattern Skirting
About $500–$1,800 in materials
Molded panels with a stone texture. They give you a masonry look without mortar and never need painting or sealing. They install much like standard vinyl.
- Stone texture in several colors
- No painting or sealing
- Costs more than plain vinyl
Faux Brick Skirting
About $450–$1,600 in materials
Brick-look interlocking panels that install like standard vinyl skirting. The pattern shows best on longer runs, like the sides of a doublewide.
- Brick texture and coloring
- Interlocking panel system
- No pointing, painting, or sealing
Insulated Skirting
About $600–$2,200 in materials
Vinyl panels with a foam backer, or regular skirting with rigid foam board added behind it. In cold climates this helps cut cold drafts under the home and can lower the risk of frozen pipes. It isn’t a substitute for heat tape and pipe insulation, and it still needs vent openings.
- Foam insulation backer
- Helps with drafts under the floor
- Still needs vents and an access opening
Access Panels & Vents
About $25–$150 each
Every skirting job needs a way in and a way for air to move. An access panel lets you reach the plumbing, ductwork, and crawlspace for repairs and inspections. Foundation vents with screens let moisture escape. See the ventilation section below for how much vent area to plan for.
- Lockable access doors
- Screened foundation vents (check the “net free area” on the label)
- Colors to match your panels
Skirting Types Compared
| Material | Rough Material Cost | DIY Friendly | Durability | Good Fit For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl | $300–$1,200 | Yes, easiest | Good | Most owners on a budget |
| Metal / Steel | $400–$1,500 | Yes | Very good | Windy sites, homes that need tougher panels |
| Rock / Stone Pattern | $500–$1,800 | Yes | Good | A masonry look without masonry |
| Faux Brick | $450–$1,600 | Yes | Good | A traditional look, longer doublewide runs |
| Insulated Vinyl | $600–$2,200 | Yes | Good | Cold-winter areas |
| Concrete Block | $800–$2,500 | Hire a pro | Excellent | Permanent setups, homes on owned land |
| Brick Veneer | $1,200–$3,000 | Hire a pro | Excellent | Permanent, higher-end installs |
What I see most in Michigan, Ohio, and Indiana: plain white or beige vinyl when budget comes first, and insulated skirting when the owner has dealt with frozen pipes or drafty floors. Stone and brick pattern panels show up when the owner wants the home to look more permanent.
Skirting Ideas
Ventilation and Access: Don’t Seal It Up Tight
The most common skirting mistake I see is closing the crawlspace in completely. Moisture from the ground has to go somewhere. If it can’t get out, it ends up in the floor, the insulation, and the belly wrap.
What the federal installation standards say (24 CFR 3285.505):
- When skirting closes in the crawlspace, it needs ventilation openings with at least 1 square foot of net vent area for every 150 square feet of the home’s floor area. If the ground is covered with a 6-mil polyethylene vapor retarder, the minimum can drop to 1 square foot per 1,500 square feet.
- Put vents on at least two opposite sides so air can cross the crawlspace, and set them as high as practical above the ground.
- Vent openings need screened, corrosion-resistant covers. In areas that freeze, covers may be adjustable so you can open or close them with the seasons.
- Leave an access opening of at least 18 inches wide by 24 inches high (and at least 3 square feet) so the plumbing and utilities can be reached.
- Dryer vents and combustion-air inlets have to run all the way through the skirting to the outside, not just into the crawlspace.
Your home’s installation instructions and local rules come first and may ask for more. Don’t cover or seal vents to stop drafts. Use adjustable vent covers, insulated skirting, and pipe protection instead.
To figure out how many vents you need, divide the vent area you need by the net free area printed on the vent’s label. Most foundation vents provide well under one square foot each, so one vent per 150 square feet is usually not enough. The calculator below shows the minimum vent area in square inches to make this easier.
How Much Skirting Do You Need?
Enter your home’s size. This tool estimates perimeter, panel count, rail length, and the minimum vent area. Panel widths vary by brand, so use the width listed for the kit you’re looking at.
Skirting Material Estimator
| Item | Estimate | Notes |
|---|
Measuring height: The ground is rarely level around a mobile home. Measure from the ground to the bottom of the home at each corner and at the middle of each long side. Buy panels at least as tall as your tallest measurement and trim them to fit, or follow the kit’s instructions for adjustable panels.
What’s in the box: Some kits include panels, top rail, bottom track, corners, an access panel, vents, and hardware. Others are panels only. Read the contents list before you order so you don’t stall halfway through the job.
How to Install Mobile Home Skirting
A handy owner can install vinyl skirting on a singlewide with basic tools, often in a weekend or two. Here’s the general order. Always follow the instructions that come with your kit.
Before you start: check your park’s rules on materials and colors. Fix any leaks, drainage problems, or leveling issues first, since skirting makes those harder to see and reach. Find utility lines, the water shutoff, and drain connections. Pick dry weather.
Measure and order
Use the estimator above to get perimeter, panel count, rail length, and vent area. Plan where your access panel(s) will go, near the water shutoff, drain connections, and ductwork, before you order.
Prepare the ground
Clear plants and debris from around the home. Make sure the ground slopes so water runs away from under the home. Skirting should never trap surface water underneath.
Install the bottom track
Lay the bottom track (J-channel) around the perimeter at ground level. Keep it as level and straight as you can, since crooked track means crooked skirting. Secure it with stakes, masonry anchors, or a treated base board, depending on the ground.
Install the top rail
Fasten the top rail to the home’s rim or band area with exterior-rated screws, following the kit instructions. Keep the gap between top rail and bottom track even. Don’t screw into plumbing, wiring, or anchors and straps.
Hang the panels
Start at a back corner and work around the home. Set each panel into the bottom track and lock it into the top rail. Cut panels to fit at the corners (score and snap works for most vinyl) and add corner trim. Leave the planned openings for access panels.
Add vents and access panels
Cut and install vents on at least two opposite sides, high on the panel, until you reach the vent area you calculated. Install the access panel(s). Run any dryer vent or combustion-air duct through the skirting to the outside. Close up gaps that would let animals in, but leave every vent and access opening clear.
Next step: a ground vapor barrier. Laying a crawl space vapor barrier on the ground under the home limits how much ground moisture rises into the crawlspace. That helps protect the floor, insulation, and belly wrap. It’s also what allows the smaller vent minimum described above.
Would You Rather Sell Than Repair?
If the skirting is just one item on a list of problems under the home, like leaks, a torn belly wrap, or soft floors, selling as-is is one option to compare. I buy mobile homes that need work, and you don’t have to fix anything first.
Mobile Home Skirting FAQ
What is the best skirting for a mobile home?
For most owners, vinyl gives the best mix of price and easy installation. In cold-winter areas, insulated skirting is worth pricing out. If you want a masonry look without the cost of block or brick, stone or brick pattern panels are the middle ground. Whatever you choose, plan for vents and an access panel.
How much does it cost to skirt a mobile home?
For a typical singlewide, vinyl materials often run a few hundred to about $1,000. Insulated, metal, and stone or brick pattern panels cost more. Professional installation commonly adds several hundred to $1,500 or more. Cost scales mostly with the perimeter, the panel height, and how many vents and access panels you need. Get local quotes for exact numbers.
What is the cheapest mobile home skirting?
Plain white vinyl installed yourself is usually the lowest-cost solid option. Lattice is cheaper still, but it does little against wind, cold, or animals, and many parks don’t allow it.
How do I calculate how much skirting I need?
Add all four sides (width + width + length + length) to get the perimeter in feet. Multiply by 12 for inches, then divide by your panel width to get the panel count. Add about 10% for cuts and spares. You’ll need about the perimeter’s length in both top rail and bottom track, plus a little extra.
Can I buy mobile home skirting at Lowe’s or Home Depot?
Some locations carry basic vinyl skirting and parts, but selection and panel heights vary by store. If you need a specific height, color, or style, ordering online usually gives you more choices.
Does mobile home skirting need to be vented?
Yes. The federal installation standards (24 CFR 3285.505) require ventilation openings in skirting that closes in the crawlspace: at least 1 square foot of net vent area per 150 square feet of floor area, or 1 per 1,500 square feet if the ground is covered with a 6-mil vapor retarder. Vents go on at least two opposite sides, with screened covers. Follow your home’s installation instructions and local rules too.
Is skirting the same as underpinning?
In everyday use, yes. Both words describe the panels around the base of the home. My underpinning for mobile homes guide covers that side of it in more detail.
Do mobile home parks require skirting?
Most parks do, and many have rules on approved materials, colors, and venting. Some don’t allow lattice. Check with park management before you order. On private land, local zoning or HOA rules may still apply.
Related Guides
Official resources: 24 CFR 3285.505, Crawlspace ventilation · HUD · EPA Mold & Moisture · ENERGY STAR